Do you love nature? Do you enjoy a walk on a path which winds through wooded areas? Look closely at trees. If you enjoy doing tree paints observe them with a critical eye.
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Observe trees during all seasonal changes throughout the year. Do they shed their leaves? Do their leaves change colors? Does the tree produce fruits, nuts, flower, or seeds?
You will also want to study the trunk of the tree. Analyze its base width and how it grows. Most people think a tree trunk is brown. You better take another good look. Most tree trunks are gray in color.
You will also see black, white, green and different shades or tones of color running through the trunk. Observe the veins, colors, and shapes of the leaves.
These observations may seem childish and simple to you, however, when you start to paint your tree with its limbs and leaves; you may find yourself not so sure of the tree color. Drawing and painting leaves will also have its challenges.
The next critical area of tree paintings is the empty space or negative space. This negative space is critical to actually be able to view the individualistic nature of the tree. You do need to see through its branches.
Start to paint your tree from the trunk. The trunk is sort of the skeleton that shapes the tree. The skeleton will set the height, width, slant, and the general nature of the tree. Are you painting a young sampling, an older tree, or a dead tree?
Paint the branches as though they are overlapping. This will offer an appearance of depth. As the tree gets taller, its branches are slimmer.
From my personal experience, I find it necessary to paint high grass or foliage about the tree trunk nearest the earth. This will help to hide or give a more natural look around the tree trunk.
The leaves are denser towards the center of the tree and become thinner at the far end of the branches. You may want to use a small brush of your choosing or a flat brush. Do not try to paint individual leaves rather create an illusion of leaves and allow the viewer to fill in the details.
Flip your brush from side to side to create clusters of three or four and give variety of different sized leaves. The leaves on a tree are not the same color. There are variations of yellow, orange, and red throughout the green leaf coloring.
Learn to paint today. Tree paints are included in your lesson plans. Visit the hobbies section of Tricia Deed at and review Portrait Painting With Acrylic & Oil Paint.
Why use intermittent mist?
Using intermittent mist to root cuttings of woody ornamentals and perennials is one of the most efficient means of asexually reproducing large quantities of plants. Intermittent mist offers a means of automatically supplying moisture during the critical periods of propagation by using timers that control the delivery of the misting water on a precise schedule. Without intermittent mist, cuttings need to be kept in a humidity and temperature controlled environment to keep them from wilting and dying from overheating and transpiration. Transpiration is the evaporation of moisture from a plants leaves, stems, flowers, and roots. Intermittent mist raises the humidity level around the cuttings, which lessens the transpiration process and allows the cuttings to form a callus and root, and reduces the temperature around the cuttings. All this can be accomplished without the need of an expensive greenhouse which requires temperature and humidity controls.
Under ideal conditions, certain softwood cuttings can root under intermittent mist in as little as 2-3 weeks, allowing you to root multiple batches of cuttings in a single growing season.
Outdoor Misting
There are many variations on misting facilities, and one style does not fit all. Large propagators may use large misting houses with elaborate lighting and plumbing, while smaller family owned nurseries may use simple hoophouses or root the cuttings in sand beds right outdoors using simple misting systems and natural lighting.
Proper location of an outdoors misting area is extremely important for success. Too much sun or wind can be very detrimental to the cuttings. Filtered shade throughout the day is best, as is a location out of direct wind, but these can be overcome with artificial shade and baffles to deflect the wind. A simple structure can be built around the misting area and shade cloth or lattice can be used with great success to reduce the sun and wind.
Rooting medium
The proper rooting media is critical when rooting cuttings under intermittent mist. Sand has been used with great success for many years, however, a mixture of peat moss with an equal amount of perlite, vermiculite, or sand is an even better rooting medium. The peat/perlite, peat/vermiculite, or even a peat/sand mixture is superior to sand alone because it will be more porous, well aerated and better drained than sand alone.
Mist duration
The correct duration and interval of mist is critical to the ability of the cuttings survival and success at rooting. Too little mist or too much time between mists will result in the cuttings drying out, wilting and dying. Too little mist will also result in the cuttings overheating which will also result in the cuttings dying. Too much mist or too little time between mists will result in a constantly wet cutting and constantly wet rooting medium. This will result in leaf drop, stem rot, and fungus and diseases. A good basic starting point is a 5 to 10 second misting period every 5 to 10 minutes.
Temperature
One factor often overlooked while rooting cuttings is the temperature around the cuttings. Air temperature should be kept between 50°F and 69°F. Slightly higher air temperatures will not harm the cuttings, but lower temperatures can be detrimental to the cuttings. The rooting medium ideally should be kept between 65°F and 75°F to promote callusing and root development. One way of maintaining proper medium temperature is through soil warming cables placed under the medium. These cables will automatically maintain the proper temperature of the medium, creating ideal conditions for callus forming and root development. A plant develops roots as long as the medium temperature is above 45°F, so maintaining the temperature of the medium above 45°F can greatly increase the ability of the cuttings to form roots.
Care of a rooted cutting
After the cuttings have developed roots, the frequency of mist should be gradually reduced to begin hardening off the cuttings and to get them accustomed to normal growing conditions. Over the period of a month or so, the water should be reduced to a once a day watering. The arborist report cutting are now ready to be transplanted into pots, grow beds, or planted into the landscape. Potted plants should continue to be watered once a day. The new plants in grow beds or planted in the landscape should be watered once a day for a few weeks, then once every two or three days for a few weeks. After about a month, the plants should established enough to be watered only during long dry spells.